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| CR-V::Performance Pursuits What we do to our CR-V in the name of performance. |
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#21
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Quote:
reason for the B20 block, is it's all ready got the increased bore, but the sleeves are thin. they're good for being sleeved, then built up, also, the bottom ends are weak as all hell, fairly notorious (like most honda non-vtecs) for snapping rods. they're wanted for the same reason the LS blocks are wanted... they're a larger bore, though the LS block has a better bottom end. either way, you first gen folks could learn a lot from the integra/civic Si crowds I still think the B18C would be the most economical and reliable method to get some power... (sadly, at a cost of around $4000) For those of us with K series... a frankenstein with the K20A head is the best bet.. but there's a ton of issues with the sensors.. (refer to k20a.org for all sorts of nifty builds)
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#22
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here is where the fun starts... http://www.dartheads.com/hondab.aspx
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#23
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Mainly its because it has a a bigger bore, its an 84mm bore right off the bat compared to a b18's 81mm bore, thats more displacement, granted a b18 will run at higher rpms stock, the B20 is good for an all motor application if the walls aren't scratched. I mean damn didn't cderalow see my videos?! come one bro, stock b20 block re honed with cheap pistons and rods, making 211hp at the wheels on stock b16 head, cams, no pnp work, with a blox intake and rpm TB? and with a 150 shot direct port setup from nitrous xpress is awesome to have. Either way if you want to boost any b series to get crazy power out of it you are going to have to re sleeve it, so why not just get a b20 because most b18's are resleeved to go to the 84.5mm bore anyways. deee deee deee.
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#24
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haha I got a dart block too, want to see the pics.....
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() She ran a 12.2 ALL MOTOR pass back in 2006 with a B16 tranny with an ATS 4.7 Final Drive and a stock B16 head on a street tune that was done at PYR out of Houston (no longer in business) Peter Yon Racing. Never saw the dyno and that was her first and only three passes. We then took it o the dyno but it had such a high stroke that the rod bearings were always taking a dump plus you can't compete in any class in the IDRC or NHRA event with an after market block (i.e. Dart). So on the dyno with Crower Stage III cams and all she made 250hp all motor on a a decent tune. Never got to run the thing after that because some guy at the shop offered a good chunk of change for it and well...took the car back home with no motor or tranny because he wanted it so bad. So yeah Darts are good, but if you want to compete don't buy one. Oh by the way it was a B20 dart block stroked and bored out to a 2.3, 86mm bore. |
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#25
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I see this thread has gotten a bit out of hand since I originally posted in 07.
The b16a head on the b20b will obviously increase HP, but what will the torque figures be like... all the hp in the world means nothing if you dont have torque to haull that heavy ass along. Im pretty sure a decent stock b20b + 16a head and a small TDO5h will give some decent day to day power. But before I head off into the turbo and head department, Id like to know if it is going to suit my lifestyle. (towing - camping - day to day driving with close near 100percent reliability.) I cant see how the head would cause any trouble, but the added induction could cause problems down the line. How much power would a CRV have to run to keep up with a GC SRT8? |
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#26
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See the black lines: (and yes, I can leave black lines on the road too any time - heh!) ![]() Just for comparison, the red lines are a friends' race-prepped B16 EG. It's quite amusing to see my engine does almost exactly what his does, only 2000 revs sooner. Just a general comment on torque, not aimed at anybody in particular: You cannot gain power and lose torque at the same revs. You can gain power&torque at higher revs, and lose some power&torque at lower revs (this is a frequent scenario). This loss of power at low revs means the car will battle to pull up into the higher revs and is 'felt' as torque, but in fact torque and power are completely linked: Power = Torque x RPM so at a given RPM, a 10% decrease in power is also a 10% decrease in torque, etc. [/waffle] If you are looking at boost, I don't think the extra complexity of getting the VTec head fitted and an ECU to control it and the extra dyno time to determine the optimum VTec engagement point (y0) etc etc, the difference will not be that much. Put it this way: a properly specced, built and tuned non-VTec B20 can be built to any power output you want. Quote:
(-&
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Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana! |
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#27
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Im from Dallas before the army shipped my Arse to NY. Chris
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Pure Performance www.myspace.com/Sk8trcm, http://my.prostreetonline.com/member/Chris_98_CRV_LX/ SPONSORS - Stewart Warner Guages - www.sw-performance NOS energy Drink - Drinknos.com Topspeed - www.topspeedauto.com |
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#28
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Sorry to hear about your choice of service.
Thanks for your service all the same.
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Mike: 1999 CR-V EX RT4WD 5 MT 1998 Ranger LTX 4X2 5 MT My V RT4WD Helm inc Owner's Manuals are available through Honda Owner's Link CR-V TSBs Honda Owner Link ![]() ![]() 2001 CR-V LX RT4WD 5 MT - Totaled. |
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#29
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Yeah, he could have joined the Corps and been shipped to Southern California.
x2. Thank you for serving.
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The Racoon Silver Moss Metallic 2006 CR-V EX 5 Speed (Gen 2.5) - 50,000 miles and counting Accessories: invisible bra, front splash guards, Weathertech Window Deflectors, floor mats, cargo cover, cargo tray, moonroof visor, iPod interface, Nekkid™ spare. (more to come) ![]() ![]() ![]() Milano Pink 1999 CR-V EX 5 Speed (Gen 1.5) - SOLD at 127,997 miles |
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#30
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Would it help if you install a girdle from b16/gsr/type R that way you can rev pass the crv rev limit?
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