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| CR-V::Performance Pursuits What we do to our CR-V in the name of performance. |
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#31
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For me, the girdle is extra 'insurance' for if you want to rev up into 9+. Some people say block-guards are the best but I would only use one if I was going to hand-fit (ie NOT tap it in) and then have it welded in place, and then bored. Compared to that - I'd rather put a bit more effort in and go with Darton MID sleeves. The weak points of the LS / B20 bottom ends are (in order): > rod bolts > conrods > head gasket stability > sleeves (ie: if you are only going to do only one thing it must be ARP rod bolts) My motor runs stock sleeves, and I did put a Type-R girdle on (seeing as I was doing it myself it was uber cheap to do). The only thing I did to improve block rigidity is I have solid inserts and used ARP head studs with a bit of extra torque on them. The extra 'squash' sandwitching the head gasket and stopping vibration at high revs from unsettling the top end. I race my car and it will run all day long up to 8500. I believe it would rev higher safely too but my cams only make power till there so I have set the rev limiter at 8500. BTW, similar to boosted applications, with even a mildly modded B20 the tuning is super important. Saving money by using a piggy-back and VAFC "dash-candy" on your B20 is like applying to join the club of guys that say the B20 has pi$$-poor sleeves and they crack "just like that"... I have a very basic (ie cheap) stand-alone ECU, I was able to install it myself, and spent the money on getting it set-up on a dyno. You need to have the will and ability to sort out all the other parameters yourself: start-up enrichment; cold-running; temperature compensation; etc etc Oops! I'm waffling...
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Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana! Last edited by CRX; 11-01-2009 at 05:55 PM. |
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